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Monday, October 20, 2014

aaron, lately

meaaronschonbrunn copy

Aaron's new thing these past few weeks has been to approach every adult male he sees and say, hopefully, "Dada?"

It is so awkward.

(For those wondering, when his actual father asks him to say "dada," he usually bellows, angrily, "MA-MAA!")

Friday, October 17, 2014

the streets and rooftops of morocco


Hope you're having a good Friday. We have friends visiting Istanbul again—we love having people in town!—so we're going to a traditional meyhane tomorrow evening with a group of friends. (If this sounds familiar, it's because we did the exact same thing last weekend). I'm mixing up some afternoon cocktails for some friends on Sunday, and then I turn thirty on Monday. So that's kind of exciting!

Here are a handful of photos from our trip through Morocco several years ago: a mish-mash of Marrakesh and Rabat, plus the medina in Fes. We had originally intended to stop in Casablanca but after realizing we were way, way too broke to see anything nice in the city (and after I fell down an entire flight of stairs in our hotel—seriously), we left. Fortunately, it was the only bust in our trip there. We'd love to go back with one day to drink freshly squeezed orange juice in Marrakech and to eat potato fritters and kofta and eggs at Thami's in Fes. Have a happy, delicious weekend!

moroccocamel moroccocat moroccogarden moroccobuildings moroccanrooftops
moroccowall moroccowhitebuilding moroccoboy moroccoroad moroccosnake

Thursday, October 16, 2014

"your child is normal."

I came across this article and thought it was hilarious. According to these guidelines, Aaron is right on track! I noticed him crossing running water yesterday and he speaks constantly of a "Memory Twin"—phew! 

P.S. Have you ever read The Moorchild? It's been . . . decades (I read it when it first came out, in the mid 90s), but it's incredibly haunting and melancholy, and was one of my favorite books when I was younger. Might download it on my e-reader for this weekend!

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

in a fitting room in nişantaşı


I took Aaron out to Nişantaşı this morning to look for something to wear to our anniversary dinner in a few weeks (we booked this restaurant in the Pera Palace, so we're going to an Agatha Christie-themed place for dinner—guess who picked it??). No such luck, but Aaron was a pretty good shopping buddy and we found an incredibly timely Incredible Hulk shirt that I could not pay for, because Aaron decided it was time to go home. (We'll go back for it later this week.) 

But, anyway, here's a photo of when he was still down with shopping, and trying on sunglasses. 

P.S. I also picked up this weird green lipstick I found at a drugstore. Am I years behind on this one? It changes into a deep and beautiful fuschia stain when I put it on. It's basically witchcraft but I support it 100%. 

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

scenes from vienna


(autumn wreaths for sale on the side of the road)


(cigarettes, coffee, and two glasses of orange juice on Friday morning)


(flower tins and yellow walls down a cobblestoned side street)


(wicker chairs and white tablecloths near the Vienna opera)


(pointed ears by St. Stephen's Cathedral)


(waiting carriages on Graben)


(glasses of wine and some French girl 'tude in Rathaus Square)


(Strauss in Austria)


(rolled-up newspaper at Kleines Cafe)


(snapping up the blankets on a chilly morning)

Monday, October 13, 2014

an afternoon at the heuriger feuerwehr wagner


While we were in Vienna last week, we took a 20 minute cab ride outside of the city center to experience a Viennese heuriger on a beautiful fall Sunday. There are tons of them in Vienna (and many of them were close by this particular one), but Feuerwehr Wagner had a fantastic children's playground surrounded by picnic tables, which meant an easy decision for us. We arrived at 4pm, which is when it opened, and set up shop at one of the tables near the food-serving portion of the heuriger (obviously). It's essentially cafeteria-style, where you get in line to pick from an assortment of delicious cured meats, chewy pretzels, and warm strudel, but you order your wine from a server at your table.


People slowly started trickling in soon after the heuriger opened: families with kids, this sharply dressed gentleman with his wife, groups of young friends. When we went, it it didn't seem touristy at all, if you like to avoid that sort of thing, although I generally don't mind. (Drinking wine outdoors with friends and family: what a wonderful way to spend a Sunday afternoon!)


The grounds of the heuriger are beautiful and, although it doesn't look to be large at first glance, the tables stretch out waaaaay into the back, where the children's playground is. (It's so big you can't really hear the kids scream towards the front, which is great.) All the tables are far away enough from each other that it doesn't feel crowded, and the back portion was quiet and secluded, surrounded thickly by trees and plants, and dotted with carved fountains. Beyond the server wandering over to take your next drink order, it almost feels like you're picnicking alone in the woods. 


The wine was so good! Josh and I have what I refer to as "wine goggles," where anything that doesn't taste like vinegar gets the thumbs up from us and is drunk a little too enthusiastically, but I really think the ones we sampled (especially the "Aton") were objectively delicious. Although, again, it doesn't take much these days...

joshwine32 viennawine5

And the strudel! I normally don't like apple desserts (I know), but this had so many caramelized apples and so much brown sugar and was served with such rich cream that it couldn't possibly be bad. It was also dotted with tart raspberries, which didn't hurt.


It was such a fun—and delicious—afternoon. Aaron was a little nuts during parts of it, but he had plenty of places to run free, and large portions of the heuriger were basically empty, so it was nice to be able to sit back and let Aaron explore on his own without bothering any of the other patrons. It's kind of an odd thing to recommend to those with kids, but it really is a child-friendly attraction in Vienna, as long as you get there early (and buy those kids lots of pretzels).

We love love loved Vienna, and I can't wait to edit and share the rest of our photos from our vacation. I still love Lisbon a little bit more, and Josh prefers Budapest, but as far as living somewhere with a young child, we've been daydreaming about returning to Vienna one day—it's objectively easier to get around, and these heurigers really sold us. Some street scenes  from the city later this week!